Suggested Itinerary for Uxmal, Ruta Puuc Route and Beyond, While Staying at Centrally Located Flycatcher Inn
Suggested Itinerary: Minimum 7 Days (Excluding time for a drive up through the "hacienda lands "). With detailed information about the Yucatan so hard to come by from abroad, many of our guests have asked us to help take the guesswork out of their sightseeing planning, and help them avoid the disappointment of later finding they missed something really interesting. With that in mind we have worked out a suggested itinerary to help you make the most of your time in the area. Based on our personal sightseeing favorites as well as feedback from our guests and travelers, we suggest the following 6 sightseeing-packed days, with an additional no-drive rest day in the middle during which you can wander through our own Mayan village exploring its' famous sites, meet the villagers, or just relax here at Flycatcher Inn; perhaps walk our private nature trail or lounge on your terrace while watching the many exotic birds that frequent our gardens and lagoons. Of course you can tailor the suggestions to do as much or as little as you prefer each day, adjusting your stay accordingly.
Be sure to check our Traveler Info page and Cultural Calendar for details about many of these sights and activities. For more or alternate ideas check our itinerary for long term stays. We hope you enjoy your stay, this beautiful Yucatan, and the warm and friendly Mayan residents!
Day 1: Uxmal Ruins, Oxkintok Ruins, Calcetok Village & Caves, Muna Arts & Pottery
Beginning with majestic Uxmal, the major ruin 15 minutes to the north, you should allow 3 - 4 hours to see it. Be sure to follow the path back toward the House of the Old Woman, because it is a lovely walk through the woods leading to it. If you go back behind the Governor's Palace and walk through the ravine behind the plateau on which it sits, you will see mot-mots (the splendid racket tailed bird), and "Cheles", the brilliant blue and black Yucatan Jay.
After Uxmal, continue north to the ruins of Oxkintok, set on the hillside to the west of the village of Muna. Oxkintok has the only known underground labyrinth on the Yucatan Peninsula - take a flashlight. Oxkintok is also territory of the large black "Ek Balam" cat. If you're lucky, you may see it.
Along the road to Oxkintok, you will pass through the Village of Calcetok, and by the caves of the same name. This is an extensive system but there are several different routes to choose: from "chicken" to macho spelunker - (I fall in the chicken category). Those who go in are always impressed. Guides are always at the site and you can go at almost any time. I'd take a flashlight here too. The opening looks like you are descending down into an overgrown cenote. Quite lovely.
In the Village of Muna, on the north end, you will find several artisans houses selling quality handmade clothing. You will also find the excellent potters - Patricia and Rodrigo - located at the entrance to the restaurant Chun Yax Che. These talented people make fine reproductions of pre-Columbian pottery.
Muna also has a gas station in the center of the village, across from the market place. In December and August, corridas are held in the village square, along on side of the church.
Guided Cave Tour
Day 2: Oxkutzcab & Ticul Market Towns, Ruta Puuc Route Ruins, Loltun Caves, Hacienda Tabi, Convent and Regional Food in Mani
Next day begin with the market Towns of Oxkutzcab or Ticul in the AM, and proceed on to the Ruta Puuc Route with the three principal ruins of Labna, Sayil, and Kabah. The latter is just 6K to the south of our village. Along this route you will come to the Loltun Cave system, organized tours going through at 9:30, 11 AM and 12:30 PM, and every hour from 2 to 4 PM (the last tour). Between the caves and the ruin Labna, you will come to signs for Hacienda Tabi, an unusual architectural building and noted because it was one of the only sugarcane producing plantations (instead of henekin) in the area. Accessible only during the dry season, and well worth seeing.
The market towns are only open in the morning, and are best on Tuesday, Thursday, and the weekend. January 6th is the day of the "Tres Reyes" (Three Kings) honoring the 3 kings who took gifts to the baby Jesus. If Santa Claus didn't bring you anything, you have nother chance on this day. This is the traditional gift giving day in Yucatan. On this day, special bread made in the shape of a wreath, each with 3 tiny dolls hidden inside, will be for sale in the markets. Whoever gets one, or the most, has to give a party the 2nd or the 14th of February, St. Valentines day. The 2nd is "dia de la virgin de Candelaria", and is the most common day for the party.
So be careful if you are invited to partake of the special bread, or you might be giving a party!
For a very long day, you might work in a trip to Mani, for lunch and to see the convent made from an old Mayan structure, and famous for the site at which the Spanish Bishop Landa burned all the Mayan statuary and written texts, called codices. The restaurant, El Principe tu Til Xiu, is well known for it's regional dishes. It is located on the street behind the convent. Around the village square you will also find hand made clothing, particularly the traditional huipils, the ladies embroidered gowns.
Day 3: Ride Miniature Horse Drawn Trains to Swim in Cuzuma Cenotes, Handicrafts in Mama, Convent and Regional Food in Mani
A trip up to the cenotes of Cuzuma is easily combined with a stop in the convent Village of Mama (the "Noria" here is particularly well preserved. This is where water was drawn, looking like a small domed chapel - located out behind the old orchard). Handcrafts are here around the village square also. Mani can be included in the day as well, on your way to the cenotes.
The cenotes are reached by "truk", small old platform railroad carts pulled by small ponies. There are three cenotes in all, and you can see them all, or spend the entire time in the first one, the easiest to reach and the most swimable. It is about a 3 hour trip.
Miniature Horse Drawn Train Swim in Azul Waters of an Notice the horse is shorter than the men! Underground Cenote
Day 4: No-Drive/Rest Day, Village of Santa Elena
Wander through our wonderful little Mayan village; everything is within walking distance. Early in the morning you will see the local ladies balancing huge baskets of whole corn on their heads as they walk down the streets to the miller to have this important staple ground for their daily cooking needs. On the quiet village streets most of the traffic is tricycle taxis with sun shades transporting residents here and there all day long. See our beautiful church and convent areas, rich in village history, where Stephens and Catherwood spent so much time in 1839-41 prior to the Caste Wars creating their now famous and invaluable documentation of Mayan culture and archaeological sites. Visit the compact new museum on this same site that now displays some infamous mummies among other artifacts. Right in our Zocalo, or town square, you will see an entrance to the fabled 40 kilometer escape caves and tunnels that Mayans used to avoid capture and death at the hands of the Spaniards during the 50 year Caste Wars of the 1800's. You will have a close-up look at the thatched roofs and mud covered walls of traditional Mayan buildings and compounds that make up the majority of homes here; meet the residents - youngsters and elders alike. Stop in a local eatery and enjoy the rich but mild Mayan cuisine with its herbs and spices so different from other regions in Mexico. Do a little wildlife and bird watching while wandering through our acreage on our private nature trail, or just relax on your terrace and enjoy the many exotic birds that frequent our gardens, fruit trees and lagoons.
Day 5: Kabah, Bolonchen, Xtakuumbixunaan Caves, Hopelchen, Hochob
You could then head south, stopping at Kabah ruins if you have missed that one, on your way to Bolochen (meaning 9 wells) and on to the caves of Xtakuumbixunaan, made famous by Frederick Catherwood for his illustration of the wooden pole ladder descending down to water inside the cave. From here, you could continue on to Hopelchen and the little known site of Hochob, now easily accessible from the highway.
This drive is leisurely and lovely when the flowering vines are blooming. You are going through the heart of the corn growing region here, although you may wonder where all the people live. Tucked away in tiny villages, invisible to you.
Day 6: Fort City of Campeche, Fort San Miguel, Artifacts, Mummies, Jade Masks, Artisans, Seafood Dining
Campeche is another easy day trip, taking about 1 hour 45 minutes by the short cut across to Hecelchakan, where you rejoin Highway #180 coming south from Merida.
To find this short cut coming FROM Campeche, on Highway 180, you will look for a sign near the turnoff to Helcelchakan that says BONONCHEN and DZITNUP. Turn right at this sign, about an hour out of Campeche. It cuts across the Peninsula and rejoins with Highway 261 just north of Bolochen, roughly 25 minutes from Santa Elena. This saves you over an hour from the long way through Hopelchen and via Edzna.
In Campeche, on of the must-sees is Fort San Miguel, housing artifacts and mummies from Calakmu. The fort sits on a hill to the south of the city, just off the sea wall road. Close to the turn off to the fort, continuing on the seawall road, is a good local restaurant, El Faro del Moro. Don't be deceived by the outside appearance, it is located alongside a marina. As you drive, look for the giant fist appearing out of the ground - the Monumento al Resurgimiento - you're close. Beach side. Good Seafood.
The jade masks from the Calakmul archeology site are temporarily being housed in the church with the lighthouse and mosaic facade, Iglesia San Roque, on Calle 12th.
Aside from the fort, check out Casa Seis, a 19th century style house, formerly belonging to Montejo, along one side of the Parque Principal. The Casa de Artesanias, Tukulná, on Calle 10 (2 blocks from the park) features well done crafts, clothing, hats, pottery, etc. There are also other craft shops along this street. And these are just a few of the things to do here.
Day 7: Celestun, White Sand Beaches, Seafood, Sea Shells, Pink Flamingos, Springs, Mangroves
Turning to the north again, Celestun as a day trip is easiest accessed through Uman and Kinchil. The time is just under 2 hours from our village, and this route (either from Merida, or from Santa Elena) avoids the majority of villages and topes (speed bumps). The beach is open for walking for miles to the north, and has lots of shells. It is also clean white sand, but not of the Riviera Maya variety, naturally. Here you take boats to see the pink flamingo colony and other migratory birds, as well as "ojos de agua", underground springs bubbling up through the mangroves. There are also several small good local restaurants for seafood. Soak up the sun, relax and enjoy. You will have the beach pretty much to yourself during the week.
This will keep you more than busy for at least 7 days, and it doesn't even include a trip up through the hacienda lands! I hope it will give you a better idea of what there is to do in our area.
Be sure to check our Traveler Info page and Cultural Calendar for details about many of these sights and activities, as well as happenings in our village.