Our charming boutique hotel is located just 10 minutes southeast of the splendid ruins of Uxmal. Many people tell us
that Uxmal is more elegant than Chichen Itza, and that the setting is lovelier and more striking. I agree. Stand atop
the grand pyramid with the Governor's Palace on one side and the lacy coombs of the Dovecote on the other and
you can see for miles across the flat peninsula.
But Uxmal is not all. There are 3 exquisite small sites along the Ruta PUUC Route that are unlike any others. I must
use the word exquisite, because that is what they are. The many masks of Chaac covering the facade of Kabah
never fail to entrance me. From far away, close-up, looking sideways, or at an angle, they change in what you see.
Sayil looks like someone plunked it down from an isle in Greece, and I love the tall tree canopy walking into the ruin
site itself. Mot-mot birds sit silently in the trees, watching you walk by underneath, or float from ruin wall to wall. This
is the bird with the long racket plumed tail, and the strange animal sounding calls. The site Labna seems to have
absorbed the very distinct colors of the earth, turning the stones cream, cinnamon, apricot, steel blue/gray, and
chocolate brown. There is a wealth of detail here, and you must look down along the edges of the walk ways
(sac-be) and buildings, as well as up.
But I like the drive itself. From the Inn, all the way to Oxkutzcab by this little used highway, you are in citric orchard
and wild land. Last Sunday on a drive to Tekax, we saw an anteater, "ahchab" in Mayan, oso hormiguero in Spanish.
Ant bear. We have two distinct ones in the region. One is black and tan, looking like he has on a short pant
coverall, and the other is a very defined cream and black. Both come down onto our 25 acre property from time to
time, along with the agoutis, "tzub", a sort of large tail-less chipmunk looking creature who loves to play.
We also saw village boys playing with a tiny Coati, "chiic", as we passed, and a farmer brought in a baby tigrillo the
other day. This last is a very small spotted Jaguar looking cat. I also frequently see the black Jaguarundi, "Ekmuch",
driving to and from Ticul where I go to market and do e-mail every day. This feline is about 4 times the size of a
normal house cat, black, and very swift and beautiful.
I like driving the country roads. When the flowering vines come out, as the rains start in the late spring, you can
drive for miles through trees draped with cloaks of purple and fuchsia, lilac, and blue, butterflies and birds flitting
back and forth in the road. The flowering trees of Ek che and Skan lol also come out with the rains, dotting the
countryside with pods of yellow color, as well as fields of Tahonal, a yellow flower that one local honey comes from.
Parrots are chattering quietly right now as I write, crunching on some seed pod back in the acreage. Soon flocks of
Aztec parakeets will come swarming in, rowdy and raucous, zooming overhead, and looking for a cornfield for dinner.
The green Jay is back - I can hear his peculiar call, and the squirrel cuckoo with his eerie "ho, ho-ho, ho, ho" in the
early mornings and at dusk.
And then we have cenotes. None more intriguing than going up to Cuzama, to the hacienda Chunkanan, and
being taken in by small horse drawn railway carts to the cenotes, where you can swim if you like. In the
first one, called Bolonchoojol, the water is so clear that you step into it without realizing it. It has a small
shallow area before dropping into the deepest part, where fish swim. Cenotes are limestone sink holes,
having water in the bottom. They can be entirely open, like the one at Chichen Itza, or partially covered,
like a big globe. Bolonchoojolis mostly covered, and inside the open cave like structure mot-mot birds
have made their nests, and vie with the stalagmites and stalactites for visual attention. It is cool and
peaceful in there, and I could sit all day and enjoy it. It is an easy trip to do in a day, with a late lunch at
Mani, and perhaps the purchase of a lovely hand made embroidered gown or shirt from one of the village
ladies sewing co-ops. Just another day in paradise.
So you can see why I am still here after 20 years, and these are just a few of the reasons.
Come join us for a few days, or a week. Discover a Yucatan few know.
Kristine,
Flycatcher Inn Boutique Hotel, Santa Elena
10 minutes southeast of Uxmal in Yucatan, Mexico
Discover a Yucatan Few Know: Unique Yucatan Beyond Uxmal & Chichen Itza discover exquisite Ruta Puuc Route, ride a miniature horse drawn train to swim in underground cenotes, explore caves, see exotic tropical wildlife like jaguarundi or tigrillo. Meet the REAL Mayans and see the REAL Mexico you have been searching for.
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A Yucatan B&B Bed & Breakfast Boutique Hotel Inn Accommodation
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