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| SWIM IN YUCATAN'S CENOTES 65 Million years ago, an asteroid or comet struck Earth in an apocalyptic collision, wiping out almost 3/4 of all living species on the planet, including dinosaurs. The resulting impact crater on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula is ringed with cenotes: underground caves and caverns now filled with azure pools of cool fresh water. Come swim with us... |
CENOTES
Thanks to technological advancements in the last 2 decades, scientists now have evidence that 65 million years ago
a 6 mile wide asteroid or comet struck Earth in an apocalyptic collision, wiping out almost 3/4 of all living species on
the planet, including dinosaurs. Chicxulub is the 112 mile wide and 3,000 foot deep impact crater on Mexico's
Yucatan Peninsula that was discovered in 1988 with NASA's Landsat Thematic Mapper satellite imagery. Chicxulub
crater is now eroded and ringed with cenotes: sinkholes or underground caves and caverns filled with azure pools
of cool fresh water. "Cenote" is Spanish for sink hole, originating from the Maya word dz'onot.
Click here for NASA's research overview of the impact and Chicxulub crater.*
Click here for MIAC & GSC's excellent imagery of Chicxulub impact crater and cenote location map.*
EXACTLY WHAT IS A CENOTE? Courtesy Lee Meinicke
A cenote is literally a limestone sink hole, a place where the limestone cap forming the Peninsula has collapsed and
fallen in. This takes two major forms, one being where the surface has eroded and fallen straight down, forming a
lateral shaft containing water. These look nothing more than circular pools, meters deep, such as Cenote Azule at
Laguna Bacalar, the Sacred Cenote of Chichen Itza, and cenote Xlacah at Dzibilchaltun just north of Merida. Others
are like a cavern where only part of the top cap has fallen in, exposing the water below.
Imagine a bubble just under the earth's surface. At the bottom of this bubble, there is water. If a small piece of the
top falls in, you have limited access and visibility of the inside and the pool formed within, such as the second and
third cenote at Chunkanan near Cuzama. If a larger piece of the top of the cavern falls in, the access is easier and
visibility is enhanced. This is so with Chelantun, the first cenote of 3 accessible by horse drawn narrow gage rail
platform cars at the old hacienda of Chunkanan, Ik-kil near Piste, and Dzitnup near Valladolid.
Courtesy Lee Meinicke Courtesy Lee Meinicke Courtesy Irene Kontje
Cenote and Hacienda Loops:
Cenotes are a must see. Preferably ones that have not been too refined but are still accessible, and where there
are no tour buses. If you could combine that with a countryside drive, a few small villages with big old churches
towering over them, and a couple of haciendas to admire as you drive by, it could well be the perfect day trip.
I believe I have two now: cenotes by horse-drawn rail car, and cenotes for diving.
First, Cenotes by horse drawn rail car:
We start off from the Inn in Santa Elena to Ticul, and on to Chapab. The road has been repaved, and although
quite narrow, is in good shape. Stop in Mama for a look at the church and the Noria behind it; the domed
cap building where they drew water. Check the carvings over both side and main doors. They are particularly
appealing designs that I think would look well in embroidered pieces.
From Mama, you will go to Tekit, home of many small shops producing clothing from unbleached muslin.
Stop and buy a couple of these cool pretty blouses or shirts and continue straight through town towards Ochil.
Here the road is badly potholed for a short stretch, narrow and sinuous, so drive with caution. Past Ochil you will
head for Chunkanan and Cuzama/Homun, not far.
As you approach Chunkanan, you will see and cross the old narrow gauge rail tracks, formerly used to transport
henequen on the large haciendas nearby. Reaching the village itself, you will see the remains of one such hacienda,
and along the road you will see the first of the horse drawn small rail platform cars that will take you into the
cenotes. The men charge 130 pesos per car, and it will hold about 4 adults. Choose one that has a place for
your feet and legs and preferably one with seat cushions, as the ride is rather rough. By the time you read this, the
changing area and bathroom palapas they are building at the first cenote should be ready. Should you need it,
there is a bathroom available in someone's house in the village where you board the cars, charging 3 pesos, all
neat and tidy, just ask. We tip the driver about 50 pesos after the trip.
The first cenote here, Chelentun, has a steeply inclined stairway with metal rails to hold onto but they can get very
hot from the sun. Better to take some small hand cloth to grip them with, (and I would not take small children down),
but quite do-able. And well worth it. Below it is cool and the water is incredibly clear and blue. There are
fish that look like catfish, and an easy entrance into the water. A new wood platform has been built and
you can jump in from there. Yes, the water is cold! The cavern curves around somewhat and becomes deeper
but there is no hidden current, and it is lovely to swim out in and observe closely the stalagmites and stalactites.
Float around and listen to the drops of water falling into the pool. If you are lucky, there will be motmot birds
sitting quietly in the many grooves and pockets of the cave walls.
From here you can proceed further to two more cenotes on the same route, but access is difficult and only for the
more adventuresome and agile.
We headed north to nearby Homun, and a surprise. Years ago we visited this tiny village and its cenote, right in
the middle of the square, and I thought "what a shame." It was filled with bottles and cans and plastic. Now, to
my delight, it has been completely cleaned up with a guarded entry gate charging a small admission, and it is lovely
and clear again. The villagers have finally realized what a treasure they have and taken pride in it. The stairway
down is relatively easy and there is a large stone platform to walk around on, to view and enter the circle of water
that almost surrounds it like a moat. Rising out of the center and extending out through the hole in the cavern roof
above is a large old dead tree. From how long ago, I wonder?
The water is deceptive here. It is much deeper than it looks. I watched a couple sitting on an exposed rock jutting
up from the bottom, out some way in the water. The girl repeatedly pushed off, trying to reach bottom, and never
did quite do it, although it looked like she could have easily stood up there.
Walking around, there are some beautiful formations of rock to be seen and the water is incredibly clear
with a mostly sandy bottom. Facing back towards the stairway inside, walk way over to the right corner and
out on the rocks. There you can see small chambers that are formed by the rocks and walls back around
the opposite side of the cavern. There are some amazing stalactites and stalagmites here too. One
especially, but I won't tell you about that one. You will see it for yourself.
Back up on the surface, head back to the small restaurant El Cenote, that you just passed. Don't be
deceived by appearances; the food is great, especially the fish and the shrimp cocktails. On weekends
they broil pork in various ways also. Very tasty and very fresh. Yes, purified water is used in all the drinks.
Atmosphere it doesn't have, but the bathrooms were clean and functional, and the owner/waiter/guide,
Gabriel Cabrera, is a very nice fellow. He can point you to the cenote, behind and to the right of the
restaurant, if you don't see it. He should have his pool finished shortly also, which would be an added
bonus, although I would prefer the cenote.
We headed back via Acanceh, passing the hacienda of Nokchacan, passing by the huge old Gothic
style church soaring over tiny Ek Nakan. How in the world did it happen to be built there? Another
story for sure. Keep going on to Dzitina and on to Acanceh. In front of the small pyramid in the middle
of town, pause to look at the huge stucco masks way up high under the protective canopies on one side,
and turn left onto Calle 20, and on to Hacienda Tekit and then Tecoh, a very orderly and tidy town. Here we
turned off to the right at the sign for Hacienda Sotuta de Peón, passing through Kamuchil on the way. Just
keep going, and soon you will arrive at the hacienda, as the road passes right through part of it, with the
main building on the left and the machinery and processing buildings on the right. Tours can be arranged
with advance reservation only.
As the road continues, you will pass acre after acre of henequen, all belonging to the hacienda, which is still in
production today. Soon you come to Uayalcah and turn south (left) to Mucuyche, tiny Yunku, Sacalum, and on
to Ticul. The road is brand new, restoring the old trail all the way up to Merida. You could also continue on to
Temozon from Uayalcah and see the stunningly (and expensive!) restored hacienda there, go on through Abala
and out to Highway 261 and South to Uxmal, but it would be a much longer route.
If you come through Sacalum and on to Ticul, you will enter Ticul on what becomes Calle 26. Continue until you
reach the center of town and the stop light. Turn right onto Calle 25 and continue to 34th, turn left and you are
on the road to Santa Elena. You may wish to print out the map of Ticul from our Maps & Driving Directions page
before doing this tour.
As we drove this route, the scenery changed continually from large ranches and rolling swells in the land to flat,
dry and stark up around Cuzama/Homun. And yet in this most bleak of terrain are hidden these lovely cenote
worlds of water.
Second: Cenotes you can dive in:
Continue up to Yaxcopoil and visit the old heneken museum/hacienda, furnished exactly as it was, open
every day with a guide available to explain in Spanish the workings of the plantation, and written guides and map
in several languages. This is just off Highway 261, exiting at the sign for Yaxcopoil, 35 minutes from here. Then
continue south on the highway for barely 5 minutes and you will come to the exit for Cacao, a small village formed
from the remains of the old hacienda you see in ruins today. Note the old stone houses, many with pointed roofs.
These would have all been part of the hacienda, including the church, functioning still.
Continue on to 2 cenotes in the the tiny ejido village of San Antonio Mulix, 8 kilometers from Highway 261.
In San Antonio Mulix you will pay a 50 pesos per person fee at the palapa hut at the entrance, then continue on to
the Y. If you go right, you will come to the first cenote within 2 kilometers; the road is passable, go slowly. The
second cenote is just beyond, about 400 meters. Both cenotes have entrances to underwater cave chambers
that can be explored. Scuba tanks are available, and the head man is a certified cave diver and biologist.
There are covered picnic tables at each, so you may wish to come prepared with things to eat while enjoying a swim.
(Take your garbage out with you, please). Supplies may be purchased at either Uman to the north, or in Muna, if
coming from the south. Both areas have small supermarkets located right around the center plaza, open all day.
The restaurant is quite good too. Well worth a whole, very special day.
The first cenote is shallow at the edges, becoming deeper at the back, and there are under water caverns or caves
reached by scuba diving from this back area. NOTE: underwater exploration here should NOT be attempted except
by expert, certified cave divers. This cenote is open to the air. The second cenote is a partially covered cave-like
structure, again with a shallower area, and extending once again under water into other caverns or caves, all filled
with water and various structures and formations. Expert cave divers only here also. Both of these cenotes are
small, and both would be good for younger children that know how to swim, as the edges are shallow.
Hundreds of small fish will swim with you.
Back at the Y, if you go a short way down the road straight ahead, you will come to a good little restaurant with
clean ample bathrooms, and a reception hut where they RENT GOOD MOUNTAIN BIKES, SNORKELS, AND
DIVING TANKS. I have prices if you are interested. Guides can be arranged to take you through jungle trails to
the nearby haciendas, or to the cenotes by bike, or to nearby aguadas (not suitable for swimming). Bikes rent for
100 pesos, snorkels for the same. Food is from 60 to 150 pesos per person, with a fruit drink. Beer and soft drinks
are extra, but available. I have more information available on this area, if you are interested.
This is a good day trip, and could be combined with a visit to the ruins of Oxkintok, back behind Muna, or to the
village of Muna itself, for the market in the morning, or to visit the potters at the northern area of town, and
for hand made regional clothing. There is also a good small restaurant at the northern edge of Muna called
Lol Pich, open every day until 5 p.m.
I would NOT SUGGEST this trip for the weekend. While tourists may not know about this area, the locals do, and on
weekends it can be very busy. During the week, you could well have it mostly to yourselves.
Cenotes: hundreds dot this area, just below the surface, and yet not a drop is visible above.
Apparently the gods felt something special was needed here, in this inhospitable stretch of the Peninsula, and
what a magnificent gift it was. Cenotes. Clear and crystalline hidden pools of the gods of the Mayan world.
How special we can share it, if only for a short time.
Doesn't stop me from digging in my back 40 though. Maybe I'll find one!
Kristine,
Flycatcher Inn, Santa Elena,
10 minutes southeast of Uxmal in Yucatan, Mexico
Thanks to technological advancements in the last 2 decades, scientists now have evidence that 65 million years ago
a 6 mile wide asteroid or comet struck Earth in an apocalyptic collision, wiping out almost 3/4 of all living species on
the planet, including dinosaurs. Chicxulub is the 112 mile wide and 3,000 foot deep impact crater on Mexico's
Yucatan Peninsula that was discovered in 1988 with NASA's Landsat Thematic Mapper satellite imagery. Chicxulub
crater is now eroded and ringed with cenotes: sinkholes or underground caves and caverns filled with azure pools
of cool fresh water. "Cenote" is Spanish for sink hole, originating from the Maya word dz'onot.
Click here for NASA's research overview of the impact and Chicxulub crater.*
Click here for MIAC & GSC's excellent imagery of Chicxulub impact crater and cenote location map.*
EXACTLY WHAT IS A CENOTE? Courtesy Lee Meinicke
A cenote is literally a limestone sink hole, a place where the limestone cap forming the Peninsula has collapsed and
fallen in. This takes two major forms, one being where the surface has eroded and fallen straight down, forming a
lateral shaft containing water. These look nothing more than circular pools, meters deep, such as Cenote Azule at
Laguna Bacalar, the Sacred Cenote of Chichen Itza, and cenote Xlacah at Dzibilchaltun just north of Merida. Others
are like a cavern where only part of the top cap has fallen in, exposing the water below.
Imagine a bubble just under the earth's surface. At the bottom of this bubble, there is water. If a small piece of the
top falls in, you have limited access and visibility of the inside and the pool formed within, such as the second and
third cenote at Chunkanan near Cuzama. If a larger piece of the top of the cavern falls in, the access is easier and
visibility is enhanced. This is so with Chelantun, the first cenote of 3 accessible by horse drawn narrow gage rail
platform cars at the old hacienda of Chunkanan, Ik-kil near Piste, and Dzitnup near Valladolid.
Courtesy Lee Meinicke Courtesy Lee Meinicke Courtesy Irene Kontje
Cenote and Hacienda Loops:
Cenotes are a must see. Preferably ones that have not been too refined but are still accessible, and where there
are no tour buses. If you could combine that with a countryside drive, a few small villages with big old churches
towering over them, and a couple of haciendas to admire as you drive by, it could well be the perfect day trip.
I believe I have two now: cenotes by horse-drawn rail car, and cenotes for diving.
First, Cenotes by horse drawn rail car:
We start off from the Inn in Santa Elena to Ticul, and on to Chapab. The road has been repaved, and although
quite narrow, is in good shape. Stop in Mama for a look at the church and the Noria behind it; the domed
cap building where they drew water. Check the carvings over both side and main doors. They are particularly
appealing designs that I think would look well in embroidered pieces.
From Mama, you will go to Tekit, home of many small shops producing clothing from unbleached muslin.
Stop and buy a couple of these cool pretty blouses or shirts and continue straight through town towards Ochil.
Here the road is badly potholed for a short stretch, narrow and sinuous, so drive with caution. Past Ochil you will
head for Chunkanan and Cuzama/Homun, not far.
As you approach Chunkanan, you will see and cross the old narrow gauge rail tracks, formerly used to transport
henequen on the large haciendas nearby. Reaching the village itself, you will see the remains of one such hacienda,
and along the road you will see the first of the horse drawn small rail platform cars that will take you into the
cenotes. The men charge 130 pesos per car, and it will hold about 4 adults. Choose one that has a place for
your feet and legs and preferably one with seat cushions, as the ride is rather rough. By the time you read this, the
changing area and bathroom palapas they are building at the first cenote should be ready. Should you need it,
there is a bathroom available in someone's house in the village where you board the cars, charging 3 pesos, all
neat and tidy, just ask. We tip the driver about 50 pesos after the trip.
The first cenote here, Chelentun, has a steeply inclined stairway with metal rails to hold onto but they can get very
hot from the sun. Better to take some small hand cloth to grip them with, (and I would not take small children down),
but quite do-able. And well worth it. Below it is cool and the water is incredibly clear and blue. There are
fish that look like catfish, and an easy entrance into the water. A new wood platform has been built and
you can jump in from there. Yes, the water is cold! The cavern curves around somewhat and becomes deeper
but there is no hidden current, and it is lovely to swim out in and observe closely the stalagmites and stalactites.
Float around and listen to the drops of water falling into the pool. If you are lucky, there will be motmot birds
sitting quietly in the many grooves and pockets of the cave walls.
From here you can proceed further to two more cenotes on the same route, but access is difficult and only for the
more adventuresome and agile.
We headed north to nearby Homun, and a surprise. Years ago we visited this tiny village and its cenote, right in
the middle of the square, and I thought "what a shame." It was filled with bottles and cans and plastic. Now, to
my delight, it has been completely cleaned up with a guarded entry gate charging a small admission, and it is lovely
and clear again. The villagers have finally realized what a treasure they have and taken pride in it. The stairway
down is relatively easy and there is a large stone platform to walk around on, to view and enter the circle of water
that almost surrounds it like a moat. Rising out of the center and extending out through the hole in the cavern roof
above is a large old dead tree. From how long ago, I wonder?
The water is deceptive here. It is much deeper than it looks. I watched a couple sitting on an exposed rock jutting
up from the bottom, out some way in the water. The girl repeatedly pushed off, trying to reach bottom, and never
did quite do it, although it looked like she could have easily stood up there.
Walking around, there are some beautiful formations of rock to be seen and the water is incredibly clear
with a mostly sandy bottom. Facing back towards the stairway inside, walk way over to the right corner and
out on the rocks. There you can see small chambers that are formed by the rocks and walls back around
the opposite side of the cavern. There are some amazing stalactites and stalagmites here too. One
especially, but I won't tell you about that one. You will see it for yourself.
Back up on the surface, head back to the small restaurant El Cenote, that you just passed. Don't be
deceived by appearances; the food is great, especially the fish and the shrimp cocktails. On weekends
they broil pork in various ways also. Very tasty and very fresh. Yes, purified water is used in all the drinks.
Atmosphere it doesn't have, but the bathrooms were clean and functional, and the owner/waiter/guide,
Gabriel Cabrera, is a very nice fellow. He can point you to the cenote, behind and to the right of the
restaurant, if you don't see it. He should have his pool finished shortly also, which would be an added
bonus, although I would prefer the cenote.
We headed back via Acanceh, passing the hacienda of Nokchacan, passing by the huge old Gothic
style church soaring over tiny Ek Nakan. How in the world did it happen to be built there? Another
story for sure. Keep going on to Dzitina and on to Acanceh. In front of the small pyramid in the middle
of town, pause to look at the huge stucco masks way up high under the protective canopies on one side,
and turn left onto Calle 20, and on to Hacienda Tekit and then Tecoh, a very orderly and tidy town. Here we
turned off to the right at the sign for Hacienda Sotuta de Peón, passing through Kamuchil on the way. Just
keep going, and soon you will arrive at the hacienda, as the road passes right through part of it, with the
main building on the left and the machinery and processing buildings on the right. Tours can be arranged
with advance reservation only.
As the road continues, you will pass acre after acre of henequen, all belonging to the hacienda, which is still in
production today. Soon you come to Uayalcah and turn south (left) to Mucuyche, tiny Yunku, Sacalum, and on
to Ticul. The road is brand new, restoring the old trail all the way up to Merida. You could also continue on to
Temozon from Uayalcah and see the stunningly (and expensive!) restored hacienda there, go on through Abala
and out to Highway 261 and South to Uxmal, but it would be a much longer route.
If you come through Sacalum and on to Ticul, you will enter Ticul on what becomes Calle 26. Continue until you
reach the center of town and the stop light. Turn right onto Calle 25 and continue to 34th, turn left and you are
on the road to Santa Elena. You may wish to print out the map of Ticul from our Maps & Driving Directions page
before doing this tour.
As we drove this route, the scenery changed continually from large ranches and rolling swells in the land to flat,
dry and stark up around Cuzama/Homun. And yet in this most bleak of terrain are hidden these lovely cenote
worlds of water.
Second: Cenotes you can dive in:
Continue up to Yaxcopoil and visit the old heneken museum/hacienda, furnished exactly as it was, open
every day with a guide available to explain in Spanish the workings of the plantation, and written guides and map
in several languages. This is just off Highway 261, exiting at the sign for Yaxcopoil, 35 minutes from here. Then
continue south on the highway for barely 5 minutes and you will come to the exit for Cacao, a small village formed
from the remains of the old hacienda you see in ruins today. Note the old stone houses, many with pointed roofs.
These would have all been part of the hacienda, including the church, functioning still.
Continue on to 2 cenotes in the the tiny ejido village of San Antonio Mulix, 8 kilometers from Highway 261.
In San Antonio Mulix you will pay a 50 pesos per person fee at the palapa hut at the entrance, then continue on to
the Y. If you go right, you will come to the first cenote within 2 kilometers; the road is passable, go slowly. The
second cenote is just beyond, about 400 meters. Both cenotes have entrances to underwater cave chambers
that can be explored. Scuba tanks are available, and the head man is a certified cave diver and biologist.
There are covered picnic tables at each, so you may wish to come prepared with things to eat while enjoying a swim.
(Take your garbage out with you, please). Supplies may be purchased at either Uman to the north, or in Muna, if
coming from the south. Both areas have small supermarkets located right around the center plaza, open all day.
The restaurant is quite good too. Well worth a whole, very special day.
The first cenote is shallow at the edges, becoming deeper at the back, and there are under water caverns or caves
reached by scuba diving from this back area. NOTE: underwater exploration here should NOT be attempted except
by expert, certified cave divers. This cenote is open to the air. The second cenote is a partially covered cave-like
structure, again with a shallower area, and extending once again under water into other caverns or caves, all filled
with water and various structures and formations. Expert cave divers only here also. Both of these cenotes are
small, and both would be good for younger children that know how to swim, as the edges are shallow.
Hundreds of small fish will swim with you.
Back at the Y, if you go a short way down the road straight ahead, you will come to a good little restaurant with
clean ample bathrooms, and a reception hut where they RENT GOOD MOUNTAIN BIKES, SNORKELS, AND
DIVING TANKS. I have prices if you are interested. Guides can be arranged to take you through jungle trails to
the nearby haciendas, or to the cenotes by bike, or to nearby aguadas (not suitable for swimming). Bikes rent for
100 pesos, snorkels for the same. Food is from 60 to 150 pesos per person, with a fruit drink. Beer and soft drinks
are extra, but available. I have more information available on this area, if you are interested.
This is a good day trip, and could be combined with a visit to the ruins of Oxkintok, back behind Muna, or to the
village of Muna itself, for the market in the morning, or to visit the potters at the northern area of town, and
for hand made regional clothing. There is also a good small restaurant at the northern edge of Muna called
Lol Pich, open every day until 5 p.m.
I would NOT SUGGEST this trip for the weekend. While tourists may not know about this area, the locals do, and on
weekends it can be very busy. During the week, you could well have it mostly to yourselves.
Cenotes: hundreds dot this area, just below the surface, and yet not a drop is visible above.
Apparently the gods felt something special was needed here, in this inhospitable stretch of the Peninsula, and
what a magnificent gift it was. Cenotes. Clear and crystalline hidden pools of the gods of the Mayan world.
How special we can share it, if only for a short time.
Doesn't stop me from digging in my back 40 though. Maybe I'll find one!
Kristine,
Flycatcher Inn, Santa Elena,
10 minutes southeast of Uxmal in Yucatan, Mexico
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| *Links on this page to information provided by NASA, MIAC & GSC are not copyright Flycatcher Inn, are provided here with appreciation and in good faith for the non-commercial purpose of general interest and education, and are presented in accordance with the respective parties posted copyright permissions. Refer to NASA, MIAC & GSC for credits and copyright use regulations. |
| Church at Ek Nakan photo by Lee Meinicke |
| Acanceh photo by Lee Meinicke |
| San Antonio Mulix cenote |
| Yaxcopoil Hacienda |
 |