Private transportation can be arranged to see the area by advance request, if arriving by bus. Please inquire. We do however recommend that you have your own car.
Explore Santa Elena:learn of our proud village history - Mayas, Spaniards; Stephens & Catherwood document exquisite Ruta Puuc ruins; Caste Wars, German settlers, mummies - Secret escape tunnels, burning of the village, a new name, unusual artwork in the church, the Mayas today
Days Of the Dead: Una Vela Mas - An intimate, sensitive description of the rituals in laying someone to rest in Mayan Yucatan. - We will have a new candle on the altar for the Days of the Dead this year, in tribute to Carmen, Santiago's mother.
Yucatan Treasures: What the Earth Hides Below the Yucatan Peninsula - Stunning marble, sparkling quartz, stalactites & stalagmites in caves, crystal clear blue waters of subterranean cenotes; - arrowheads, jade beads, carved stones, pottery shards and other precious artifacts. What will YOU find?
Kristine's New Book: 'Tales from the Yucatan Jungle: Life in a Mayan Village' - Click for details of Flycatcher Inn Boutique Hotel co-owner Kristine's book, new in January 2012 - Join Kristine as she recounts her journey in finding a new home, family, and culture in a Mayan village near the archaeological ruins of Uxmal.
SUGGESTED ITINERARY:
Why Visit the Yucatan? Many of you, perhaps most, think of the Yucatan as Cancun, Playa, beaches, and white sand. But years ago, when I first came here, it was not the main reason to visit. It was the Mayas. Their culture, their ancient temples and pyramids, their small villages, and their gentle ways. It 's why I came. And it is still here. So perhaps once again, you might like to go back to the real Yucatan. Where the people I first met still are. Permit me to show you a different Yucatan, the interior.
The Flycatcher Inn Boutique Hotel is located in the small village of Santa Elena, where John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood stayed while rediscovering the archaeological sites of Uxmal and the PUUC group. They stayed in what is now a small museum, attached to the church.
Spend a few days, and explore the region for yourself.
DAY 1: Along Highway 261 heading north, we come to Uxmal. Nothing prepares you for the splendor of this site, hidden as it is from the nearby highway. It is always green and lovely, with wonderful views across the peninsula from The Grand Pyramid. The crowds are few, and no vendors are allowed within the grounds.
Continuing north are the hillside ruins of Oxkintok and the amazing cave system of Calcetok - for those who are brave of heart. There is always someone to take you through; as far and for as long as you like.
You are close to the small village of Muna, noted for it's handmade clothing and two excellent Mayan reproduction potters, Patricia and her brother Rodrigo.
Further north are two interesting above ground cenotes, located back behind the village of Cacao, off Highway 261, known as San Antonio Mulix.
Back along the highway returning south is a good restaurant called Canah Nah, with a large clean swimming pool, and very friendly local staff, located about 3 kilometers before Uxmal, right along the highway.
DAY 2: Just 8 kilometers to the south begins the Ruta PUUC, with the smaller exquisite sites of Kabah, Sayil, and Labna. Each one is full of small details that many people miss, passing through too quickly. Take your time and explore these sites. They are well worth it, and so are the wildlife and birds that you can sometimes see in this area. Be on the lookout for pumas, jaguarundi, small weasels, coatis, and box turtles, among others.
A new activity along this route is the Eco Museo del Cacao, located between the ruins of Xlapak and Labna. This new plantation museum, the only one of its' kind in Mexico, will show all the stages of producing chocolate from the cacao bean: how it is grown, harvested, and made into chocolate (Xocolatl), and it's significance to the Maya and their gods. There will also be a walking trail to the top of the hill, an orchid garden, and local artisans with their work. An interesting addition to the Ruta PUUC for certain.
Along this route you also have the more formal guided cave system of Loltun. Nearby in the village of Mani is one of the best regional restaurants in the area, Principe Tutul Xiu. The church/convent is where Bishop Diego de Landa burned the Mayan codice texts, thereby almost obliterating the written language of the Mayas.
DAY 3:Cenotes. One of the best routes, and the most fun, is to begin to the north of the village of Tekit, and head toward Cuzama. In Chunkanan, you will see the small rail carts drawn by ponies, waiting to take you into three beautiful cenotes. Each is located below ground, like a bubble with water at the bottom, crystal clear, perfect for swimming. Be aware that these go straight down, no shallow part in the water.
Follow north to Homun, just east of Acanceh, to see another incredible cenote with easier access and shallower waters. Go during the week. On the weekend, EVERYONE else will be there too.
From Acanceh, rejoin Highway 18 and stop at the archaeological site of Mayapan to see the glyph panel. Here also is a smaller temple similar to "El Castillo" in Chichen Itza, but no crowds.
A few miles north of Mayapan is another good restaurant called Na Luum, right along side the highway. Continuing south, one can also visit the church/convent of Mama, one of the most interesting in the area with its' unique indoor atrium, and go on to see the black carved wood statue of Christ at Chumayel, before returning to Santa Elena.
DAY 4 and beyond:
LESSER KNOWN ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES: For those of you who are more adventurous, one can head to Campeche for the day, or to Hochob, south of the village of Hopelchen. You will pass through one of the major colonies of Mennonites in the area, along the way.
The little known ruins of Xcalumkin are just off the highway between Bolonchen and Hecelchakan, the latter having a tiny museum and small restaurant near the park.
MARKET TOWNS: Head east to Tekax and wind over the hills to Chacmultun, a site hidden among the hills with some stunning views across the peninsula from the top. Stop at the market towns of TICUL and OXKUTZCAB along the way, pick up lunch.
HACIENDAS: Going north from Muna, stop to see the two haciendas of Yaxcopoil and Ochil. Both are old heneken plantations, Yaxcopoil left as it was, furniture and machinery still in place. Ochil has been semi-restored with lovely grounds and the main house functioning as a restaurant. They also have a fine crafts museum of art work from all over Mexico.
GREEN GOLD: heneken and haciendas. The peninsula's wealth came from heneken and it's products, rope being the most important. The heneken's spiky leaves were beaten apart, separated and dried, and woven into rope, needed all over the world at that time. They called it Green Gold because of the color of the heneken plant.
The lovely old haciendas were built around this production. The beautiful old floor tiles were brought over as ballast on ships returning full of heneken products. The elegance of this age is owed to this spiky plant.
One of these extraordinary haciendas is still in production today, Hacienda Sotuta de Peon, an easy 55 minute drive from here, on the old road to Merida. There they take you on a tour of the whole process, plus into an incredible cenote on the property, and of course, the elegant hacienda main house, to see life as it was. A full loop as an alternate to the cenote loop would be to rejoin Highway 18 from Hacienda Sotuta de Peon via Tecoh, and visit the church whose base was the remains of an ancient pyramid, stop and see the archeological site of Mayapan, and return through Mama, seeing the church/monastery there, before returning through Ticul.
Why not experience it for yourself? Tour is 2.5 hours plus. Restaurant on site, but not included in the price of 300 pesos per adult.